Wedgwood Skirt by Straight Stitch Designs, Pattern Review

Most people who know me probably feel I have a "look" I love bold prints and colors and I have an almost gravitational pull to skirts and dresses. I just love the ability to put on a skirt or dress and just feel really pretty and pulled together. My first sewing project for myself was a skirt, and they are still one of my favorite things to sew. These days most of my sewing time has been take up with sewing things for Cordelia- and I really enjoy sewing for her, but I was really excited to sit and sew something for me! 

The Wedgwood Skirt pattern by Straight Stitch Designs covers sizes 0-24 which covers waist sizes 24" to 44.5", and comes in two lengths- knee length and a midi length. I opted for the knee length - at 5' 5" I think the midi might just be too long for me.  I was between sizes 18 and 20 and after test fitting my waist band I was still nervous the 18 would be a hair too small so I sewed up a straight size 20. In this fabric I would have been totally ok with the 18 and I ended up having to move my button in further in the waist to bring it in a bit. However I would much rather do that then have a skirt that was too small!  I think in a thicker fabric I would stick to the size 20 because the waist band would have a little more bulk and a little less give to it. I think this is a good instance to be mindful of your fabric choices and always test fit your waist band just to make sure it's perfect. 

This skirt features good classic, flattering pleats with some really fun details- including these darling button tab pockets! I decided to make my pocket tabs contrast the skirt but I really love the tester versions that used the same fabric which makes the detail more subtle. You can also always leave off the flaps if you want! 

Another fun detail is the exposed zipper and a button tab. I have never sewn an exposed zipper before (I'm actually surprised I haven't!) and I found the instructions really easy to follow. In fact all of the skirt instructions are really easy to follow! If the exposed zipper thing isn't your "thing" then no fear because Straight Stitch Designs will have a post this week detailing how to add an invisible side zipper instead. I've seen pictures of her test skirt with the invisible zipper and it is really lovely.

All in all I really love this skirt and I will totally be making it again. My only complaint is that because of the pleats the pattern piece is rather large in the plus sizes and needs to utilize 60" fabric or be cut cross grain. Not a big deal- but something to keep in mind  I cut this skirt cross grain and it worked out great- but so many fabrics in my stash are 45" with very directional prints. My biggest piece of advice for this skirt is to make sure you test fit the waist band  to get the perfect fit. The waistband is rather straight so if you are a little more lumpy in the middle it might need a tiny bit of shaping to get the perfect fit- which I might do on my next one. That is the best part of sewing- you don't have to be shaped like everyone else to get the perfect fit!

The Mackinaw Coat Pattern Review

One of my 2016 sewing goals is to challenge myself more- to take on more sewing projects using skills that push me. When Ajaire, from Designs by Call Ajaire, put out the tester call for the Mackinaw Coat I jumped at the opportunity. I love testing for Ajaire because I learn soo much, and it really forces me to sew outside of my comfort zone. 

The Mackinaw Coat uses so many great techniques that I am not well practiced in- including bound buttonholes and a bagged lining (which I adore). And just look at this collar! Doesn't it look soo snuggley! The coat also includes welt pockets, that can be sewn with our without pocket flaps. 

This pattern covers sizes 12 months to 12 years, and with four different style options it is easily customized to suit any girl or boy. You can pick a pleated or flat front "skirt" and either a large, dramatic collar or a smaller collar. The dropped armscye allows for a great range of motion for play which has made this coat a go to in Cordelia's wardrobe. 

Mackinaw Coat Pattern Review

Pattern designer? Call  Ajaire

Where to buy? Etsy

Size range? 12 months to 12 years

What size did you make?  size 5 with no modifications 

What did you think of the instructions and the construction process? This is not a coat for a someone new to sewing, there are a lot of steps and advance techniques that could be very overwhelming. In fact I was overwhelmed at times and I am no way new to sewing! The illustrations were are a great help to me because I am a very visual person, but the instructions are also very detailed for people who do better with words. 

What fabric did you use? I used home decorator fabric- light weight upholstery/ drapery cotton, and costume fur that wasn't what I had in mind but Cordelia fell in love with it. The coat is lined in teal flannel for added warmth. I did choose to color block the coat, which isn't a suggestion included in the pattern, but I like how it breaks up the busy print.

Will you sew this again? Yes! 

Any adjustments for next time? Next time I would like to size up in the length and either use a heavier fabric or interface the coat with a fuse-able fleece to make it warmer- because it was later in the season when I started this coat I decided it make it lighter so that she could wear it into the spring, but I know this would be excellent as a really heavy duty coat. 

Any advice on this pattern? Don't rush it! Jackets take time and attention to detail. I often rush through projects or leave them to the last minute and you really can't do that with something this detailed. Make sure you take the time to transfer all of your pattern markings and cut all of your notches- I get lazy with this but they are incredibly important in this pattern. Also- be sure to check out the sew-along starting February 23rd on the Call Ajaire blog! 

Be sure to check out the other amazing tester versions- it's so inspiring to see so many beautiful versions of the same jacket! I don't have links to all of their posts yet, but I will add more as soon as I can!

Autumn Lane Creations, 

Domestic360, 

Inspinration,

Needles to Say,

sew SEW Quilty

Montlake Tee by Straight Stitch Designs

I just finished up participating as a tester for Kimberly of Straight Stitch Designs . I have mentioned before how much I love testing (especially testing deadlines because it really keeps me on track) and this test was no exception. Kimberly was really sweet to work with and the amount of attention she put into the details of this pattern was just fantastic. 

I tested the Montlake, which is a relaxed fit t-shirt with a deep scoop neck, four sleeve lengths, and a swing hem that I really adore. The pattern ranges size 0-24 which gives it a great size range- something I really appreciate as a plus size sewer! 

I sewed my shirts in a size 18 and I didn't have to make any adjustments in length or to accommodate bust which was nice. I did narrow the sleeve width for two other versions I made our of stiffer fabric (I'll include pictures of those at the end).  I also want to pat myself on the back for making all of my versions out of my own stash! Operation "sew my stash 2016" is going well so far! 

  

I love the look of the narrow neckband- just remember, the more stretch your fabric has, the lower your neckline will be. 

This polka dot fabric one I made entirely on my regular sewing machine- which proves that you do not need a serger to sew knits.  

It's kinda funny, but even though I have been sewing for years it never occurs to me that I should make t-shirts! My thinking has totally changed because these were soo easy! And they were exactly what I was looking to add to my wardrobe.  Kimberly has the pattern on sale until Sunday (1/31/16) for just $8. 

Moving Forward and Creating Beauty

The other day I was wasting time on Facebook and I made the mistake of reading the comments section on a post about scars. As a rule, I don't read the comments on anything (except for HONY posts) because there are a lot of really judgmental, idiotic people in the world and they really think that people care about their asinine opinions. In this comments section those judgmental people were talking about how people who self-harm are weak and disgusting. It filled me with sadness because I know that those people would feel that I am weak and disgusting- and no matter how much disdain I feel for them, it still makes my heart heavy. 

I am sure that to most people self-harm is totally incomprehensible, for that matter I started cutting 15 years ago, and even to myself my own reasons to self- harm is a little incomprehensible. I can, however, tell you that cutting has only ever been a way to manage the war going on in my head- to feel something when depression has robbed me of any feeling, to give me something to focus on when anxiety has deprived me of sense and focus. 

When I was younger I cut everyday- these days I guess you would say I am in remission, the urge is still there- but I fight it, I exercise, or sew or talk about it. When I was a teenager I felt that I was broken and unlovable- but now I know that there are people who love me and cutting does more than just injure me and scar my body- it hurts the people who love me. Recovery has been hard, and it has been filled with relapses and dark times; my struggle through postpartum depression was one of the worst relapses, and perhaps the darkest periods of my life.  

It's particularly challenging when you carry the marks of your trials on your arms- kids ask questions about them, nosy women in Ikea comment, and I myself am reminded that when I am sad I could always just cut and feel better- if only for a moment. My scars don't feel like battle wounds from a war that I won but rather an imperfection to be ashamed of. 

Recently, after much debate I decided to start covering my worst scars with a tattoo- taking my physical representation of the pain and depression I have struggled with for 15 years and replacing it with something that is beautiful. So I can look down at my arms for once and see something I find beautiful and inspiring. Making things beautiful gives me such hope.  Starting this tattoo- on what has always been "the place" that I cut- is almost like giving myself permission to really leave the pain of the past behind- to be free of the stigma of cutting. Permanently taking away this particular area felt like removing temptation from my addiction which made sitting for the outline incredibly freeing (well, freeing and painful-because five hours of outline sure is painful). I greatly look forward to going back and having the color done.

In the end I should clarify that in my heart I know I am not weak like the internet trolls would say I am. In my heart I know that depression and anxiety are a war I fight every day, some days I might not feel like I am winning, but I know that every day I get out of bed and choose to be here, marks a day that I have won.    

It Was The Night Before Christmas

I can't always make Cordelia happy, and mostly I have accepted this. This was a really hard semester of school for me and unfortunately for her as well. I had to spend a lot of time studying to keep up, which meant that I spent less time focusing on Cordelia and she spent much more time clinging to me with all her might. Because it was such a crazy semester I did my best to cut down my Christmas crafting, I still did a little bit, but compared to years before it was really minimal.  

One afternoon while I was working on one of the few projects I had,  Cordelia came up to my desk and said "Mommy, are you making my Christmas dress?" surprised I said "no sweetie, I actually wasn't going to make you a Christmas dress this year because there aren't many more days until Christmas" and Cordelia said "but mommy, I love love my Christmas dress, you always make me one, you have to make me one please"....so on Christmas Eve I turned to my trusty Bella Sunshine Designs Coffee Shop Lace Dress and made a Christmas dress, well and a matching doll dress- but I have no pictures of it! 

I know there is nothing "christmasy" about this dress, no winter scenes, no red and green- but if it's made to be worn on Christmas it totally counts in my book! 

My sister picked up this cat fabric (part of the Hello Petal collection, designed by Aneela Hoey for Moda) in two color waves because we can't resist a good cat print and she suggested this would be a good opportunity to use it for a dress for Cordelia. 

The dark pink cat fabric has a fun bright teal accent color that I picked up in the piping and the buttons- I love a good button back dress. 

The only change I made to the Coffee Shop Dress pattern was that I more than doubled the amount of fabric in the skirt to make it extra full and extra twirly! The dress went over really well with Cordelia, and it was sure worth the time it took to make it! 

Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas

Guys, I cannot believe that today is Christmas, This year has gone by soo quickly! I am happy to report that while 2015 was a stressful year that it was also full have happiness, laughter, and Love. This year for our Holiday photos Brendon suited up in my fathers very first Santa Costume. My dad dressed up as Santa for over 25 years and it was wonderful to still get a picture with a family Santa this year even though my dad isn't up to dressing up anymore.  

I hope you all are having a very Merry Christmas, and that you are all happy and safe- we are off to the Grandparents now! 

Is It Christmas Yet?

I cannot believe it's December already? It seems like a cliche to say so- but where has the year gone? Despite the title of the post, I am really not ready for Christmas. I have two exams, and two finals to survive before I can relax. However, with a very excited four year old in the house, up went the Christmas tree and up went the small amount of decorations that we have.

She is incredibly excited for Christmas day, she keeps telling me she wants it to be tomorrow. I have a feeling this month will flash before our eyes! 

Cordelia and Brendon picked out a nice tiny four foot tree on Monday that is very proportional to our living room (last year we picked a beautiful giant one that was kind of in the way) and Cordelia and I set it up last night. 

As we decorated the tree she pulled out each ornament, she told me about the ones she remembered, she matched like ornaments together, she told stories about ones she didn't remember, and she introduced the ones that didn't have pairs to "friends". It took forever to get the tree up and I was totally overwhelmed, but it was worth it. 

This morning She woke me up super early and super energetic, and fully dressed in dress she wore last year for our Christmas cards. She told me we had to take pictures in front of the tree, with the cat, just like last year- because that's part of Christmas!The cat was more cooperative last year, so I have a feeling we will try this again later. It is hard to get a picture with both of them still! 

I am really impressed that Cordelia remembers last year- I am always startled by what she remembers, especially as her memory gets sharper and longer.